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Cooking Appliances review

KitchenAid Artisan Review: Scored 10 for Kneading, Then the Motor Stuttered

TechGearLab ranked it first of ten and gave kneading a perfect score, while noting the motor stuttering on stiff dough. Foodal says buy something bigger if you bake bread weekly.

By Paulo GerchonPublished 2 min read

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Illustration, not a photo — we don’t have a licensed image of this product yet.

8.2/10

KitchenAid

KitchenAid Artisan Series 5 Quart Tilt-Head Stand Mixer

Good · researched from 3 sources

The best-scoring stand mixer in a ten-machine test, and 325 watts is still 325 watts. For cakes, cookies, meringues and the occasional loaf it is close to perfect, and if you make bread every week two of three sources point you up a size.

Buy if
Cakes, cookies and meringues, on two perfect category scores · Cooks who want the attachment ecosystem, at fifteen-plus options · Occasional to moderate bread baking
Skip if
Weekly bread production, on Foodal's explicit recommendation · Sessions longer than about twenty minutes, when the housing warms · Anyone who needs a quiet kitchen at high speed

A perfect kneading score, with an asterisk

TechGearLab gave kneading 10.0 out of 10. The dough hook took high-hydration focaccia and sandwich dough through the windowpane test in seven minutes and produced loaves they describe as beautifully bronzed.

In the same review, in the criticisms: the motor exhibited slight stuttering during stiff dough work.

Foodal, independently, arrives at the practical version of that observation. The dough hook works, they say, and anyone producing bread frequently should buy something more powerful. They also report the top of the machine warming up after more than twenty minutes of running.

Neither source is calling this a bad bread mixer. Both are describing 325 watts doing a job that wants more.

What it is unambiguously good at

Whipping: 10.0, stiff peaks in 1 minute 50 seconds, and a six-wire whisk that TechGearLab singles out for handling small quantities that defeat other machines.

Beating: 7.0, the weakest category, with mix-ins sometimes needing a spatula.

Ease of use: 9.6, credited to the tapered bowl and adjustable beater height.

That last one is why the overall number is what it is. TechGearLab weights ease of use at 40 percent, more than any performance test, which carries the Artisan to 92 out of 100 and first place out of ten machines.

What five quarts holds

Foodal's conversion is the most useful specification in any of the three reviews: about four and a half loaves of light bread, nine dozen cookies, or seven pounds of mashed potatoes.

That is a large domestic batch. It is not a bakery.

The gear that is meant to break

Inside is a Nylatron gear that Foodal describes as designed to protect the motor if the machine binds.

That is worth understanding before it happens. If you jam the mixer, the intended failure is a cheap plastic gear rather than an expensive motor, and it is a serviceable part.

The disagreements and the annoyances

TechGearLab lists the weight at 21.3 pounds and Foodal at 26. Most likely one is the bare machine and the other includes bowl, attachments and box. Either way it lives on the worktop.

The tilt-head impedes bowl access, which is a property of the design.

And ExtraFudge's two practical grumbles: it is noisy at higher speeds, and the pouring shield is cumbersome enough that plenty of owners leave it in a drawer.

How it scored

The overall 8.2 is the weighted average of these five criteria — we never adjust it by hand.

Performance

25% of score9.0

TechGearLab scored whipping 10.0 and kneading 10.0, reaching stiff peaks in 1 minute 50 seconds and passing the windowpane test after seven minutes. Beating scored 7.0.

Value

25% of score7.5

TechGearLab ranked it first of ten at 92 out of 100 with an Editors' Choice award. Foodal calls it a solid entry-level machine. ExtraFudge names the price a drawback.

Build quality

17% of score8.5

Metal construction throughout except the pouring shield, with a Nylatron gear that Foodal says is designed to shear and protect the motor if the machine binds.

Ease of use

17% of score9.0

TechGearLab scored ease of use 9.6 out of 10, crediting the tapered bowl and adjustable beater height, while noting the tilt-head mechanism impedes bowl access.

Capacity

17% of score7.0

Five quarts, which Foodal puts at four and a half loaves of light bread, nine dozen cookies or seven pounds of mashed potatoes. Foodal recommends more power for regular bread baking.

Pros and cons

What we liked

  • TechGearLab ranked it first of ten stand mixers at 92 out of 100
  • Perfect 10.0 scores for both whipping and kneading
  • Stiff peaks in 1 minute 50 seconds, and the six-wire whisk handled low volumes
  • A power hub taking more than fifteen optional attachments
  • Foodal reports a Nylatron gear that shears to protect the motor
  • Twenty-nine colour options, which no rival matches

What we didn’t

  • TechGearLab reports the motor stuttering slightly on stiff dough
  • Foodal does not recommend it as a primary tool for serious bread production
  • Foodal reports the top getting warm after more than twenty minutes of use
  • TechGearLab scored beating only 7.0, with mix-ins needing manual intervention
  • The tilt-head mechanism impedes bowl access
  • ExtraFudge finds it noisy at higher speeds and the pouring shield cumbersome

Specifications

Specifications
Motor325 W
Bowl5 quarts, 4.73 L, stainless steel with a handle
Speeds10
Weight21.3 lb per TechGearLab; 26 lb per Foodal
Dimensions14 5/8 x 13 15/16 x 8 3/4 in per Foodal
CapacityAbout 4.5 loaves of light bread, 9 dozen cookies or 7 lb of mashed potatoes per Foodal
HeadTilt-head, not bowl-lift
IncludedFlat beater, wire whisk, dough hook and pouring shield
AttachmentsPower hub taking more than fifteen optional attachments
Colours29 per TechGearLab

How we researched this

We have not had this unit on the bench. This review synthesises the manufacturer’s published specifications, independent measurements and owner reports listed below. Every figure on this page comes from one of those sources rather than our own measurement.

3

sources reviewed

TechGearLab tested the Artisan against nine other stand mixers and supplies the category scores and weights, the whipping time, the kneading protocol and result, the motor stuttering observation, the weight and the colour count, ranking it first of ten at 92 out of 100. Foodal supplies the motor rating, the capacity conversions, the dimensions, a second weight figure, the Nylatron gear detail, the warm-housing observation and the recommendation against frequent bread baking. ExtraFudge supplies the attachment count and the noise and pouring shield criticisms; it describes no stated testing protocol and is treated as impressions rather than measurement. The two weight figures conflict and both are reported.

Our full testing policy

Common questions

Can the KitchenAid Artisan handle bread dough?
Yes, and both labs saw the same limit. TechGearLab scored kneading a perfect 10.0, reporting that the C-shaped dough hook handled high-hydration focaccia and sandwich doughs and passed the windowpane test after seven minutes with beautifully bronzed results. In the same review they note the motor exhibited slight stuttering during stiff dough work. Foodal is blunter: the dough hook automates kneading, but they recommend a more powerful model for anyone producing bread frequently, and do not recommend the Artisan as a primary tool for serious bread production. Read together, the picture is a machine that kneads well and works hard doing it.
How does it perform on whipping and beating?
Whipping is its strongest result and beating its weakest. TechGearLab scored whipping 10.0, reaching stiff peaks in 1 minute 50 seconds at standard volume, and singled out the six-wire whisk for handling low-volume quantities that defeat other machines. Beating scored 7.0, with solid results on complex cookie recipes but mix-ins occasionally needing manual intervention. Foodal reports the whisk beating egg whites and creating fluffy frostings effectively.
What does 325 watts actually get you?
Foodal gives the useful conversion: about four and a half loaves of light bread, nine dozen cookies or seven pounds of mashed potatoes in a five-quart bowl. That is a large batch by home standards and a small one by any commercial measure. They also report the top of the mixer getting warm when running longer than twenty minutes, which they characterise as normal for a small appliance rather than a fault. The protective detail worth knowing is a Nylatron gear inside, which is designed to fail first and save the motor if the machine binds.
Why does it score so well overall?
Because of the fourth category. TechGearLab weights ease of use at 40 percent, more than any single performance test, and scored it 9.6 out of 10, crediting the tapered bowl and the adjustable beater height. Combined with two perfect performance scores that produced 92 out of 100, first of ten machines tested and an Editors' Choice award. Their one usability complaint is that the tilt-head mechanism impedes access to the bowl, which is inherent to the design rather than to this model.
How much does it weigh?
The sources disagree, and by a lot. TechGearLab lists 21.3 pounds and Foodal 26. The likeliest explanation is one figure being the machine alone and the other including the bowl, attachments and packaging. Either way it is heavy enough that most owners leave it on the worktop rather than lifting it in and out of a cupboard, which is worth planning for before buying.
8.2/10
Good

The bottom line on the KitchenAid Artisan Series 5 Quart Tilt-Head Stand Mixer

The best-scoring stand mixer in a ten-machine test, and 325 watts is still 325 watts. For cakes, cookies, meringues and the occasional loaf it is close to perfect, and if you make bread every week two of three sources point you up a size.

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